Last week I undertook a very special journey. It had been my goal to find a video on FGM/C to share with the Men's group as well as other community groups in Saikeri. A friend from a Nairobi non-profit brought me 10 videos. After scanning through them I realized none dealt directly with FGM. So, I sent a shout out to my new non-profit friends from the FGM/C conference. I was given some contacts and was following up a lead. A man named Robert Onsondo worked for ADRA in Kisi and would be in Kericho for a couple days. He said he had an FGM video that I could have a copy of. Since Kericho was closer than Kisi, we decided to meet up there.
The bus would take me 12hrs of traveling round-trip, but I wanted to do it in one day. So, I awoke early and caught the new Easy Coach bus from Nairobi to Kericho. As I boarded, my seat was next to this elderly man. He won my affection instantly as he arose to offer me the window seat. We began some very light conversation and I was guessing he was Yugoslavian. He said he was retired and Nairobi was his home. He smelled of some grandfatherly musk, slightly tanned, rough hands and very sad eyes. The normal small talk ensued, "Where are you going?"
I explained that I was heading to Kericho for business and returning in the evening. I asked him the same. He turned his head to avert eye contact and explained, "I'm going to Kisumu, my brother is dead there." My heart stopped for a second. I told him pole . . . "Yes, pole." he said and we fell silent. Nibbling the biscuits that had been handed out by the bus attendant.
The bus pulled out into the noise and smog filled streets of Nairobi and we snaked our way through town and out to Westlands. I was morbidly glad for my bus partner's misfortune. I too was in a gloomy space, and I knew that with our combined gloom we wouldn't be pestering each other with small talk the whole ride. In fact, I was right, we rode in complete silence. Both staring out the window. Passing multiple police checks, small villages, zebras, cows, sheep, goats and grocery shacks.
For six hours, I gazed out the window, enjoying my thoughts and the silence. I thought about racism, and the different forms it takes. How strange it is to be a victim of racism in Kenya, mostly this happens in Nairobi. Outside the city and in general I am showered with love and welcomed. I thought about the challenges of being a white person in Kenya. I thought about the additional prejudice given to Americans. In fact, what once annoyed me has now become humorous. Whenever I tell someone I am from America, a game of 20 questions instantly begins. In this game, my opponent never fails to ask me if it is indeed true that the American government gives money to anyone who doesn't work.
To this question, depending on my mood, I always go into a short or sometimes a very extensive explanation of the welfare and unemployment system in America. After which, I always get the response, "Oh, so they do give people free money."
So, I've taken to denying my citizenship from time to time. Kenyans love to strike up conversation with whites, but I've realized that if you aren't American they aren't as interested. So, while I mostly enjoy the conversation, I've learned to say I'm Canadian when I'm not in a chatty mood. Especially when random men try to begin the 20 Q's game.
It got colder as we drove along. The zebras and random livestock were all along the roadside. The bus was 700 shillings one way. Round trip it would be about a $20 trip. It occurred to me that this would be my most expensive day ever in Kenya. Typically, I am on a 700 shilling a week budget. But, I felt as if I was on the most important mission in all of my time in Kenya. Like, i was heading out on some holy mission to retrieve golden scriptures. Golden scriptures, an FGM dvd, same thing right?
Still window gazing and thinking, another funny thought emerged. We were passing through Naivasha. On the news the previous night there was a story about how too much donkey waste in Naivasha was causing health concerns. So, the city had begun enforcing a napkin (aka diaper) law. There was video footage of donkey's hauling carts with napkins tied around their buttocks. I giggled a little and kept an eye out for donkey's wearing diapers. But, I didn't see any.
So, eventually I arrived in Kericho. Kericho is tea land, the highlands of Kenya abounding with plantations. It was such surreal sight, I'd never seen tea plantations before. The air was misty and men and women were walking through the tall tea with large bags on their backs picking the leaves. Robert sent a driver to pick me up at the bus station.
At his ADRA office we spent a quality hour of time talking about our common goals and FGM projects. He and his partner Julius O Mogire were so welcoming and generous. They gave me an fgm dvd to use and some laminated images with visuals of fgm complications and pictures of the various types of FGM. We snapped pictures of the three of us together and then I got a tour of the offices. They introduced me to the staff and had me sing one of my Maasai AIDS songs for them. They want me to collaborate with them to write a song in Kisi, and I said I would be honored!
On the way home, I caught a different bus. This one was only 500 shillings and was heading to Mombasa, but stopping in Nairobi along the way. It wasn't very roadworthy, but the other buses left very late so I decided to hop whatever bus was there. I was directed to sit in the front seat next to a young man.
I was tired and hungry, with another six hour bus ride ahead of me. So, when my new bus buddy started striking up conversation, I couldn't help myself. Right away he asked where I was from. I proudly exclaimed, "I am Canadian!" The conversation pretty much ended there. It wasn't until we stopped at the halfway point in Nakuru that he tried to talk to me again. This time, I had to hold back my laughter . . .
We boarded the bus after the break and he turned to me. He said, "So, in America if you don't work then at the end of the month the government gives you some free monies. Do they do that in Canada?"
"No." I replied. "Oh." he said and turned facing forward again. After that we had a nice silent ride home. But, I kept playing his question in my mind, and smiling to myself.
I got back to Nairobi very late at night, but was exhilarated by my success! I finally obtained the FGM video and will be sharing it with my friends in Saikeri this week.
Next week I head to Kambaland to do some HIV testing, counseling and teaching them a song I wrote about AIDS in Kamba! If possible, I may arrange a small community event with drama and music to educate the community about HIV.
Thanks for reading, I know this one got long. Your support of my work is appreciated, not just by me, but by the people in Kenya. As I always say, I appreciate any form of support you can offer . . . financial, emotional, prayers, hugs, emails, stickers whatever you can share! In my work here, I have chosen to use a donation system, and self fund. Since I am working on my own this time, the cost is considerably less than going through an organization. Besides a $1200 flight, any money raised can go straight to the community. So far, for this trip, you all have donated about $500. It doesn't even cover the flight, but I have used portions of that money to buy gifts and small items for people in Saikeri. Like potholders for the ladies, pens and notebooks for teachers, some clothes, etc.
Just want to let you know where that money is going to, it helps to fund my travel so that I can do the work here. The flight was charged to my credit card and I still want to do a backpack/ school supply donation to the school kids in Saikeri. So, if you have been considering donating, were wondering what it goes to, or were wondering if donations are still needed, I hope this has explained things.
You can donate at this link:
https://www.registrationfactory.com/v3/?EventUUID=620D74F3
Living vibrantly,
Adrienne